June 3rd, 2007 by Farmer Dave
Bac Ha has one of the most interesting ethnic markets in Vietnam and possibly everywhere in South East Asia: Sunday is market day in Bac Ha, which is the occasion for the various local ethnies to gather in huge crowds to exchange the last news, gossip, shop, and eat a copious lunch. It was visibly a festive event. I was surrounded in a sea of color, and had the feeling to be on a movie set. Everyone seemed excited. A few men rode small horses. Those fortunate enough to be able to pay 10000 dongs (75 cents) arrived at the back of a motorcycle, sharing the ride with two other passengers. Most came on foot, from villages as far as 20 kilometers away.
Even the old hunched lady was not going to miss the weekly party. Although there were several ethnies at the market, the Flower Hmong women stood apart with their vibrant dress. They wear a number of skirts and underskirts all made with very colorful fabric and some batiks. Their tops are embroided, often with flower motifs, and their heads are covered with elaborately shaped and balanced scarfs. In the rapid global uniformization of today's world, it was refreshing to see this untouched beauty in humanity!!Lao Cai is the the place where travellers cross into China on their way to or from Kunming. Like Lang Son, Lao Cai was invaded by the Chinese in 1979 and the border was closed until 1993. On the opposite side of the river from Lao Cai is the Chinese town of Hekou. It lies at the junction of the Red River (Song Hong) and the Nam Ti River about 160 miles (260 km) northwest of Hanoi. It is a market town for timber from the surrounding mountains and is strategically important because of its location on the Haiphong railway to Yunnan province, China. It has a carbide factory.
The Days Itinerary
Nam Sai Bac Ha Lao Cai. Early start to leave Nam Sai and trek back to the main road to meet back with the jeeps to drive through to Bac Ha. In Bac Ha we visit the local house of Vua Meo and Bac Ha market. Lunch is at a local restaurant, then visit a plum garden in Bac Ha as well as Ban Pho, 3 km away from Bac Ha. Transfer to Lao Cai, visit Lao Cai border. Dinner at local restaurant and transfer to train station for the overnight soft sleeper train to Hanoi. Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.
Weather: Loa Cai - Temperature 25 to 35 C, Chance of T-storms 40% chance of precipitation